[下载]皮革制造全过程英文，给有需要的同行 - 箱包英语

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附件名称：皮革制造全过程英文版附件来源：转载他人资源附件travel bags：来源网上附件简介：请注意，Excel文档中有6个文表，分别是：Tanning Materials and Uses；Retanning；Fatliquoring and Dyeing；Drying；Finishing；Glossary. 内容摘要：1.1 The major tanning method until the 20th century; 1.2 Uses extracts of barks, leaves, fruits, roots and wood;1.3 Used for Shoe Soles, Belts, Straps, Industrial Leathers, Classical Upholstery, Shoe Linings, Bookbinding... 官方评定及下载建议：官方暂未有评定及建议[凡已收入箱包手袋皮具下载中心的资源，若未特殊说明，即表示全部经过手工下载解压测试，人工审核内容，可放心下载]

皮革制造全过程英文，给有需要的同行。

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发表于 2011-7-28 13:44:00

免费送货的设计师不看糖果袋信使袋的吗？都说了你是基基皮具有限公司只需要去升级下就可以。

糖果袋真是无语了！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！

何以互补，唯有交流

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发表于 2011-7-28 13:45:00

糖果袋可以对此有意见吗？

何以互补，唯有交流

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| 发表于 2011-7-28 14:06:00

谢谢提点,已经申请升级.同时也请总斑主可以把此贴转到合适位置.

同时附上后处理块的部分内容供参考.

Finishing

Purpose and Methodology

1.0 Finishing is the application of one or more coats of finishes or seasons to the leather

1.1 To improve the appearance, either by levelling the colour and hiding blemishes, or by providing a base for the production of a polish or gloss

1.2 To afford protection against moisture, oil and abrasion

1.3 To make the leather colour fast to wet and dry rubbing

1.4 To produce some special effect

2.0 Methods for Grain Leather

2.1 The Main Stages which may be used

2.1.1 Water Stain and fill

2.1.2 Stain (bottom coat)

2.1.3 Season (second coat)

2.1.4 Clear Season (top coat)

2.1.5 Fixative

2.2 Water stain and stain coats are often applied by pad (roller coater now more in use in the 1990s)

2.3 Later water coats are normally sprayed

2.3.1 hand spray

2.3.2 machine spray

2.3.3 curtain coater

2.4 Some put on 5- 6 coats with mechanical treatment (pressing etc.) in between

2.5 Some leathers only use a wax for water resistance and face

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| 发表于 2011-7-28 14:10:00

现贴上里面小部分内容,

Skin部分

Skin

The skin is the external covering of animals. It is made up of Epidermis, Dermis, and Hypodermis. The skin is an Organ. Molecules combine to form cells which make up Tissues which form Organs.

1. 0 Epidermis

1.1 Composed of Keratin

1.2 Made up of layers of stratified epidermal cells

1.3 Lower strata transform with time into the upper strata

1.4 No Blood Vessels are present in this layer

1.5 Food diffuses through basal cells from the dermis

1.6 The lowers layers are alive

1.7 The upper layers are dead, keratinized, being continually removed

1.8 Melanocytes (which are pigments and give colour), are contained in the Malphigian layer

1.9 Many basal cells have finger like intrusions which give adhesion into the dermis

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Liming部分

1.0 Purpose

1.1 Unhairing to remove hair and epidermis

1.2 Liming to act upon the skins' epidermis, so that the skin may be properly unhaired

1.3 Liming to partially saponify skin fat and grease

1.4 To put hides and skins in proper chemical condition for liming

1.5 To swell and rehydrate skin protein to desired extent

2.0 Sweating

2.1 Oldest method

2.2 Skins are kept in dark warm room at 21-27 degrees C. bacteria are allowed to

proliferate, and they attack the region between the papillary layer and the epidermis first.

2.3 Hairs are picked off as possible - normally 20 to 40 hours

2.4 This process always damages the leather somewhat

2.5 Used for dewooling sheepskins when the wool is valuable e.g. Merino type

2.6 Essentially uncontrolled enzyme process

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Bating部分

1.0 Bating - Puering

1.1 Removes most of the lime

1.2 Produces a silky grain

1.3 Removes all swelling and plumping

1.4 The scud or dirt, short hairs, grease and lime soaps, dark coloured pigments, traces of epidermis are all loosened so that they can easily be removed by scudding

1.5 remains of the hypodermic tissue (flesh) are loosened so that they can be removed

1.6 Increases the degree of stretch possessed by the finished leather

1.7 Help suppleness, feel, pliability

1.8 Puering refers to dog dung

1.9 Bating refers to pigeon dung or hen dung or a substitute

1.10 Substitute is pancreatic enzyme (trypsin)

1.11 This substitution was discovered by Joseph Turney at Turney Bros. in Nottingham UK and Rohm of Rohm and Haas company, at turn of century

1.12 Small skin tanners, especially, continued to use dung into the 1950's

1.13 For pancreatic bates (now universally used) pH best is 8, temp about 100 degrees F.

1.14 Acts on reticulin, elastin and degraded protein

1.15 pH controlled by lime and ammonium salts

1.16 Some bates are pre-made to include pancreol plus NH4Cl, plus wood flour

1.17 The wood flour content can leave a brown deposit

1.18 Pancreol can be bought separately and the ammonium chloride added

1.19 The amount of bating done with shoe upper leathers is decreasing

1.20 Upper leather bating is done to soften and open up the grain, so it follows a surface delime only

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Tanning Materials and Uses部分内容

1.0 Vegetable tanning

1.1 The major tanning method until the 20th century

1.2 Uses extracts of barks, leaves, fruits, roots and wood

1.3 Used for Shoe Soles, Belts, Straps, Industrial Leathers, Classical Upholstery, Shoe Linings, Bookbinding, and many types of Leathergoods

1.4 Is not 100% fixed to the leather and will wash out over time

2.0 Chrome Tanning

2.1 The predominant tanning method throughout the world

2.2 Uses chrome sulphates

2.3. Used for Shoe Uppers, Gloving, Clothing, modern Upholstery, certain types of Sole Leather and finds its way into most forms of leather

2.4 Fully fixed to fibre and does not wash out

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Retanning部分内容

1.0 Stiasny

1.1 Stiasny started the research

1.2 He produced Neradol D which was later found to be a non-swelling acid which would wash out of leather. It is an auxiliary syntan.

1.3 Syntans are now a complex and expanding subject. In the 1960's we looked at three types:

a. Auxiliary

b. Replacement

c. Sulph

2.0 Auxiliary

2.2 These cannot tan themselves

2.3 Are strong acids, (pH 1.7-2.0)

2.4 Hasten veg tan, dissolving quebracho

2.5 Increase the tensile strength of leather

2.6 Increase the ability of the leather to take up grease

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Fatliquoring and Dyeing部分内容

1.0 Uses, purposes and effects

1.1 Softness

1.2 Pliability

1.3 Stretch

1.4 "run" and handle

1.5 Ability to take up or resist water

1.6 As an aid to the resistance to abrasion

1.7 As an aid to the resistance to becoming dirty

1.8 As an aid to the resistance to chemical attack

1.9 To improve tensile strength

1.10 To improve colour

1.11 The effect achieved depends on

a. Type, state of leather

b. Type, quantity of oil, fat, wax or grease applied

c. Method of application

d. Whether it is all on the surface or has penetrated into the internal structure

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Drying部分内容

1.0 Key Elements

1.1 Speed

1.2 Economy of Labour

1.3 Control of Conditions

2.0 Methodology

2.1 The taking up of the moisture from the leather by the air

2.2 Ventilation is important to prevent the air becoming saturated

2.3 Relative humidity (R.H.). The % of the moisture in the air is compared with the amount which would saturate the air under silmilar conditions

2.4 Requirements

a. Quick drying

b. Great outflow for floor space

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Finishing部分内容

Purpose and Methodology

1.0 Finishing is the application of one or more coats of finishes or seasons to the leather

1.1 To improve the appearance, either by levelling the colour and hiding blemishes, or by providing a base for the production of a polish or gloss

1.2 To afford protection against moisture, oil and abrasion

1.3 To make the leather colour fast to wet and dry rubbing

1.4 To produce some special effect

2.0 Methods for Grain Leather

2.1 The Main Stages which may be used

2.1.1 Water Stain and fill

2.1.2 Stain (bottom coat)

2.1.3 Season (second coat)

2.1.4 Clear Season (top coat)

2.1.5 Fixative

2.2 Water stain and stain coats are often applied by pad (roller coater now more in use in the 1990s)

2.3 Later water coats are normally sprayed

2.3.1 hand spray

2.3.2 machine spray

2.3.3 curtain coater

2.4 Some put on 5- 6 coats with mechanical treatment (pressing etc.) in between

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The process by which certain types of leather are at some stage of manufacture allowed to lie in piles to "age". (11)

Glossary部分内容

Click on a number for the book referenced in each particular description in the glossary.

Ageing

Alum Tanning

A process of tanning with alum, used in combination with salt, egg yolk and other substances. (11) Used for the original feathery golf balls.

"In 1845 we more than doubled that. Hard work it was. I can still smell the leather, feel the heat. We used to use a chest clamp to literally compress and push those goose down feathers into the ball. Of course you cut six strips of bull hide and you soaked it in alum and of course you took three of 'em and stitched them inside out there, and the feathers went back in, and you compressed and compressed, and the idea being that as the leather shrinks as it dries out and the feathers expand. Then that gives you the compression." Quoted by Wally Uihlein, Sept 1998, at St.Andrews Golf Congress.

Aluta

Roman name for tawed (alum tanned) leather. Aluta was used for sails in Venice, and for shoe uppers in ancient Greece. (3)

Aniline Leather

Leather which retains its colour only from dyestuffs rather than from pigment, and as a consequence looks more natural.

Bag and case leather

A general term for the leathers used in travelling bags and suitcases. It does not include the light leathers employed for women's fancy handbags. The staple material for bag and case leather is cowhide. (11)

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